Brief - The Hustle

Holy smokes, there may actually be a limit to Texans’ love of barbecue

Written by Ben Berkley | Oct 6, 2023 2:39:47 AM

Sometimes local media just fits:

  • Los Angeles Magazine has a “Cannabis” section atop its site.
  • The South Florida Sun Sentinel prominently features a “Storms & Hurricanes” beat.
  • And Texas Monthly takes great pride in its BBQ coverage.

Of course it does. Nothing evokes Texan life quite like an overloaded plate of brisket…

… which is why one recent Texas Monthly piece, “Is Texas’s Barbecue Bubble Ready to Burst?,” absolutely floored us.

Are we entering a BBQ recession?

Not quite. Texan restaurants that had been printing money are just coming back to Earth now.

  • Shop owners in the state reported dwindling lines and 20%+ sales dips this summer.

A market that was impervious to gravity is meeting it in the form of:

  • It’s too dang hot: Restaurants blame high temperatures for keeping people away. Put more artfully in Texas Monthly: “A heavy meal of smoked meat feels less than refreshing when it’s 110 degrees.”
  • A “broken” system: As every business owner on Earth right now knows, operating expenses have ballooned — labor costs have risen, sure, but so have the raw costs of high-quality meats. After customers complained of high prices, one restaurateur explained how far a 15-pound brisket purchased at $5.45/lb could go. (Hint: not far.)
  • A flooded market: Texas, its major markets fully saturated with well-regarded BBQ joints, is wrestling with a basic supply-demand issue.

The rush to join the BBQ bubble has now yielded a different kind of heat: the pressure to survive its burst.

Speaking of heat… Leaving the house to pick up a plate of links on a hot day sucks, but just imagine making them. Pit rooms, where meats cook at high temps for hours, reportedly reached 130 degrees Fahrenheit during this summer’s hottest days.