One brewery's mission to disrupt Oktoberfest's "cartel"

Festbier and brats, dirndls and lederhosen: If you thought all are welcome to raise a stein at Germany's Oktoberfest — think again.

For generations, only six breweries have been allowed to pour at the world's biggest beer festival, which generates ~$1.8B for the local economy and attracts upwards of 7m merrymakers.

But one upstart brewery, founded in a garage, aims to crash what critics deride as Munich's beer "cartel," per The Wall Street Journal.

Long traditions

Oktoberfest began as many raucous celebrations do — with a wedding.

In 1810, Bavaria’s King Maximilian I Joseph planned a grand festival for his son, Prince Ludwig, to wed Princess Therese, which included free beer and horse racing (obviously). It was a hit.

Today, the city imposes strict rules on who can sell beer at the annual fete, which for over a century has included only six breweries: Hofbräu, Augustiner, Hacker-Pschorr, Löwenbräu, Paulaner and Spaten.

All beer must be:

• Made within city limits by "established and reputable" breweries.
• Abide by the Munich Purity Law of 1487.
• Made from barley, hops, yeast, and water from a deep well.

Even Prince Luitpold of Bavaria — whose family started Oktoberfest — couldn't get his beer into the festival. He sued, unsuccessfully, alleging a cartel and sales monopoly.

The beer mafia

Now, Giesinger Bräu, founded by Steffen Marx in 2006, could be the first brewery to break up the "beer mafia."

But he needs the city council's blessing or enough signatures for a citywide referendum — he's received 21k of 35k.

While Giesinger Bräu represents only 1% of Munich's beer production, it's received significant support, including a documentary — Straight Outta Giasing.

Others are also shaking things up on the Schuhplattler dance floor.

Local restaurant Münchner Stubn sued Munich after losing a bid to manage one of the festival's massive tents — which can sell ~$11m worth of beer alone — alleging the process unfairly favors families that have run tents for generations.

For some, Oktoberfest's rules help preserve tradition, while others say they stifle diversity and cause undue fuss like "woke" organic chicken (gasp!) and "racy" dirndl styles (egads!).

Here's hoping Giesinger Bräu can be among the ~7m liters of beer poured at next year's festival.